New Beginnings

Check out Beyond The Kitchen Wall's sister Blog    New Israeli Cuisine  A Culinary Ethnographic study of the modern State of Israel, by Chef Dennis Wasko.

Published In The Jerusalem Post

Check out my first Food Column published in The Jerusalem Post!

Tabyit - Flavors of Iraqi Jewish Exile

Figs!

Last year if you recall, I had the privilege of planting and harvesting an incredible Chef's Garden. Unfortunately, with the changes that have happened in my life - the sale of the mansion, and the subsequent loss of my job - this year's Chef's Garden is basically non-existent.

That has not stopped me completely, though. On my balcony I have a very small, but beautiful garden. It is very basic, this year we just grew a few culinary herbs and some flowers. There is one plant however, that is a welcome addition to the bunch. My very first Fig Tree!

It is small and adorable. I am so excited to have it. Just a few days ago, I noticed that it was actually starting to make figs! It's like having a little piece of the Mediterranean right on my balcony.

Nothing says sunny Mediterranean like the following fig recipe! It can be used as an hors d'oevre or added to your favorite salad.



Grilled Figs with Goat Cheese and Lavender Honey

• 12 fresh figs (whatever is in season)
• extra virgin olive oil
• sea salt
• cracked pepper
• 1/4 cup fresh goat cheese, crumbled
  
• 1/4 cup good quality honey
• 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon lavender flowers

Place the honey in a small pot and gently heat until just bubbly. Add lavender flowers, stir, and allow to infuse for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the fresh figs in half lengthwise. Brush each fig with extra virgin olive oil, and season with sea salt and pepper. Place fig halves on a hot grill, cut side up. Top each with some of the crumbled goat cheese.

Close grill and allow to cook for 3 - 5 minutes, or until cheese is hot and melting. Remove from grill, arrange on a platter or atop your favorite salad. Drizzle with the lavender infused honey.
Serve while warm.

Spanish Olive Oil Chocolate Mousse : Mousse de Chocolate con Aceite de Oliva

As I continue to explore the grand culinary traditions of the Mediterranean World, I am constantly amazed at the genius and versatility of its ingredients.

One ingredient that they all have in common, and perhaps the most versatile is olive oil. Not only is it used in every aspect of the savory kitchen, it is also heavily used in desserts and pastries.

In recent years, cakes and pastries that list extra virgin olive oil among their ingredients have slowly made their way onto the food scene in the United States. I have been making such desserts and sharing the recipes for years, especially among my friends who keep Kosher kitchens. Since they are not allowed to mix meat and dairy together at the same meal, it is difficult for them to find dessert recipes, especially cakes and cookies, that do not force them to use trans-fat laden margarine. By using recipes that call for olive oil, they can have their cake and eat it too, without the guilt of knowing that they are damaging their children's arteries!

I am always on the look out for new and exciting desserts that use olive oil.

I have recently come upon a Spanish Chocolate Mousse recipe that has absolutely blown my mind! It's hard to believe that something as fantastic as Chocolate Mousse can be improved upon, but the simple addition of extra virgin olive oil will lift your mousse to new heights!

The fruitiness of olive oil marries perfectly with and enhances the flavor of chocolate. The olive oil also gives the mousse a "light" velvety texture that melts instantly the moment it hits the tongue. This is the best Chocolate Mousse that I have ever tasted, and remember, I am a Die-Hard Francophile!

If you are feeling truly adventurous, garnish the mousse with flaky sea salt.

Mousse de Chocolate con Aceite de Oliva
Serves 10

• 7 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate
• 1/2 cup mild extra virgin olive oil, preferably Arbequina
• 4 large eggs, separated
• 3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
• 1/3 cup brewed espresso, or water
• 2 tablespoons rum, brandy, orange liqueur, vanilla, or rose water* (optional)

In a small saucepan, melt chocolate over very low heat. Remove from heat, let cool to room temperature, add the olive oil, and mix well.

In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk until foamy. Add espresso or water, and flavoring. Whisk until well blended. Add the chocolate mixture and whisk together until well blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula.

Using a standing mixer, or a hand-held mixer, beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Scoop about one-third of the egg whites and fold into the chocolate mixture with a rubber spatula. Repeat with half of the remaining egg whites. Finally, fold in remaining egg whites until no white streaks remain visible.

Transfer mousse to a 10 inch spring form pan, bowl, or individual serving glasses. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight. Alternately, mousse can be frozen for at least 3 hours.

Remove the mousse from the refrigerator or freezer, serve as desired. Mousse in the cake pan can actually be cut into wedges and served like a cake. If freezing the mousse, allow to soften sightly before serving. This mousse can also be scooped into quenelles for service.
For added elegance, garnish with a flaky sea salt such as Maldon Salt.
Serve with seasonal fresh fruit.

* If using rose water, do NOT use espresso. Use plain water.

Stay Tuned For Return of Beyond The Kitchen Wall!!!

Dear Readers,

Sorry that I have been away for a while. After being laid off from my last job, I needed to take a break from writing; I just wasn't feeling it!

I am newly employed as an Instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago, and will be back sharing delicious recipes with you.

Stay tuned, it's time to get back to basics and try new, fun flavors!

Be Well,

Chef Dennis

Potage Esau - Red Lentil Soup

I like to refer to the time period between January 15th and March 1st as "Deepest, Darkest Winter". The holidays are over, and what was desirable around the end of December - snow, winter chill, etc... - is no longer so appealing. Winter has taken a firm hold and the temperatures have plunged. The snow isn't fluffy and charming, it's heavy and dirty. Days are short, though slowly lengthening. Unless you are into winter sports, all you want to do is stay inside where it is warm.

That is why this is the best time of year to pull out your favorite, hearty soup recipes. One of my all-time favorites is a Mediterranean spiced red lentil soup. Known as Potage Esau after the biblical character who sold his birthright to his brother, Jacob, for just one bowl of this delicious soup/potage/stew. There are many recipes for this soup that use different types of lentils, but the bible describes the soup/stew as red. So red lentils it is! Remember that tomatoes were not known to the ancients of the Near East, but red lentils were. This is a great vegetarian soup!

Potage Esau
Serves 6 to 8

• Olive oil for sauteing
• 1 medium Spanish onion, chopped
• 3 medium carrots, diced small
  
• 3 celery stalks, diced small
• 1 fennel bulb, diced small
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 3 cups red lentils
• 6 to 8 cups water
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

Heat a large pot over medium-high heat and lightly coat the bottom with olive oil. Add the onion, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to lightly brown. Do this in batches if needed. Add 2 cups of the lentils, 6 cups of water, the coriander, cumin, and lemon juice. Cook until the lentils begin to fall apart, about 15 to 20 minutes. After 15 to 20 minutes, check for seasoning, and add the remaining lentils. Cook for an additional 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Add more water if the soup is too thick, and adjust seasoning. Simmer for an additional 5 minutes and serve.

Spanish Almond Cake for The Festival of Trees (Tu B'Shvat)

This year, the Jewish Tree Festival, Tu B'Shvat, falls on January 30th. Think of it as the forerunner of Arbor Day. It is a minor holiday that is celebrated by the planting of trees, especially in Israel.

Throughout the world, Jews eat foods on Tu B'Shvat that are characteristic of the land of Israel, especially the seven types of fruits and grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8. However, any fruit or nut that comes from a tree can be enjoyed as part of the holiday celebration. It's a great way to remind ourselves that Springtime, with its promise of new life, is not far off.

Here is a recipe for a very traditional Spanish (Galician) almond cake. It would fit perfectly into any holiday celebration. Also note that it contains mostly tree related ingredients: olive oil, lemon, cinnamon, and almonds. It also contains wheat which is one of the grains listed in Deuteronomy 8:8.

Spanish Almond Cake (Galicia)
Serves 8

• olive oil and flour for pan
• 4 large eggs
• 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  
• 3 cups almond flour
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• confectioners' sugar for dusting

Center oven rack and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Oil and flour a 9 inch spring-form cake pan.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest, cinnamon, granulated sugar, and salt. Whisk together until foamy. Add the almond flour and mix well. Add the flour and mix until just incorporated. Be sure that the batter is smooth and that there is no dry flour remaining towards the bottom.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and bake for about 30 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

Remove the cake from the oven and allow to cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack. After 10 minutes, carefully run a knife around the edge of the cake to be sure that it is not sticking to the pan. Remove the collar and allow the cake to cool to room temperature. When cool, invert the cake and remove the pan bottom.

Place cake upright on a serving plate. Dust the top with confectioners' sugar.